Best Groundcovers for Greensboro, NC Landscapes

Posted on 2026-01-08 13:22:24

Groundcovers are the peaceful problem-solvers in Piedmont yards. They hold slopes, fill awkward spaces, cool the soil, and choke back weeds far much better than the majority of bark mulches. In Greensboro, where summertimes run humid and winter seasons swing from soft to unexpectedly cold, the right groundcover can save upkeep hours and watering costs. The wrong one can race into beds, smother perennials, or collapse in July heat. After years setting up and maintaining landscapes across Guilford County, I have actually concerned count on a brief roster of plants that endure the region's clay soils, variable sun, and occasional ice. The best option depends on your light, wetness, traffic, and appetite for pruning.

This guide covers dependable entertainers for landscaping in Greensboro NC, including what each plant does well, where it has a hard time, and how to keep it tidy. I'll fold in some design notes and hard-won suggestions from regional projects, so you can match a plant to your conditions and prevent the normal pitfalls.

Reading a Greensboro website the ideal way

Greensboro beings in USDA zones 7b to 8a, depending upon microclimates. That means minimum winter temperature levels hover around 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit in many winter seasons, with periodic dips that singe marginally sturdy plants. Summertime highs typically push the mid-90s, and soil wetness swings dramatically unless you water. Our clay soils drain gradually when wet and bake hard when dry. On new-build lots, the topsoil is often scraped thin. All of this prefers groundcovers https://www.google.com/search?kgmid=/g/11mhqj_71b&sei=CzZTabb7MN_Q5NoPtruMyQE#lrd=0x88531bed6a8507d7:0x2430ce5f307c0a58,1,,,, with sturdy root systems and some drought tolerance, yet adequate disease resistance to manage humidity.

Before selecting plants, view the area for a week. Where does the sun hit at 10 a.m. in June? Does water sit near downspouts after thunderstorms? Do you desire a barefoot-friendly surface area, or is this a slope where grip matters more than texture? If there are fully grown oaks or pines, prepare for dry shade and root competitors. If you're in a more recent neighborhood with complete sun and reflected heat, that's an extremely different plant list.

Native and native-ish options that earn their keep

Native plants handle our rains rhythms and regional soils more with dignity, and they support pollinators and birds. Not every native makes a great groundcover, however a handful do.

Green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)

For small areas of part shade, green-and-gold types a joyful low mat with yellow spring flowers. It spreads out by stolons but at a respectful speed, staying under 6 inches. I utilize it under dogwoods, around mailbox posts, and as a soft edge to shady flagstone courses. Expect some dieback in hot, open sun. It values leaf litter or a light garden compost topdress in fall. In dry summers, a weekly soaking helps it avoid crisping, particularly in newer plantings.

Woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata)

It's more a loose tapestry than a dense carpet, but in early morning sun or dappled shade it weaves beautifully with ferns and hellebores. The spring bloom is a real Carolina blue to lavender, in some cases fragrant. It endures clay better than individuals think, as long as you do not plant into a building pan. Blending pH-compatible leaf mold during install assists. Cut down after blossom to trigger a fresher flush of foliage.

Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) and other Southeast-native sedges

Sedges have silently become my go-to for shady, dry websites under fully grown trees. Pennsylvania sedge looks like a small fountain lawn, about 8 to 12 inches, and can be cut high one or two times a year if you want a meadow-like look. It spreads gradually by roots and holds soil well. For a little wetter shade, try Carex appalachica or Carex blanda. Unlike turf, these endure root competition and lean soils, which is precisely what you find under big oaks on older Greensboro streets.

Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia)

For bright, dry banks with bad soil, pussytoes amaze individuals. The silvery leaves knit together firmly and smother weeds. The spring blossom stalks are quirky and short-lived, however the foliage is the factor to plant it. It remains really low, 1 to 3 inches, making it ideal in between stepping stones and in the hot edges along south-facing walkways. It dislikes watering and abundant soil, so conserve your garden compost for the vegetable beds.

Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens)

A creeping evergreen for deep shade, especially under pines where little else flourishes. The little paired leaves and red berries check out well up close. It grows slowly and remains flat, so consider it as an information plant for intimate yards rather than a quick-coverage fix. I have actually had the very best success where soils are acidic and leaf litter is allowed to remain as mulch.

Southeast-adapted ornamentals that carry out in Greensboro

Not every useful groundcover is native. A few well-behaved non-natives deliver color and strength without turning intrusive when you select the right cultivar and keep the clippers handy.

Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata)

The spring blossom blankets keeping walls and bright slopes in pinks, purples, and whites. After flowering, it acts as a dense evergreen mat that reduces weeds reasonably well. It requires complete sun and good drain, which you can develop by mounding or mixing in coarse sand and little gravel on heavy soils. Shear lightly after blossom to keep it tight and encourage next season's flowers.

Liriope, thoroughly picked (Liriope muscari cultivars)

Liriope gets a bad name since Liriope spicata runs aggressively. Muscari types, like 'Huge Blue' or 'Royal Purple,' form clumps instead of spreading through the area. In Greensboro, they deal with heat, salt splash along driveways, and high foot traffic. They look tidy surrounding strolls and filling areas where shrubs meet turf. Prevent scalping them in late winter; an once-over with hand pruners to eliminate scruffy leaves is kinder and prevents destructive brand-new development that typically begins early here.

Mondograss (Ophiopogon japonicus and O. 'Nana')

Standard mondograss builds a fine-textured evergreen mass in part shade to shade. The dwarf variation looks like a miniature, cool tuft and works magnificently between pavers. Both endure summer heat and short cold snaps. They are slower to develop than liriope, however less coarse and more refined for modern-day styles. In clay, a raised bed or perhaps a one-inch lift enhances efficiency since mondograss dislikes soggy bottoms.

Ajuga, however with restraint (Ajuga reptans cultivars)

In part sun to shade, ajuga uses glossy leaves and a spring bloom that bees love. The trick is containment. Utilize it in walled planters, along masonry, or bounded by pathways and dry creeks. 'Chocolate Chip' stays lower and spreads less aggressively than older cultivars, making it simpler to manage. Expect southern blight and crown rot in damp summers. Excellent air movement and preventing overwatering are your best defenses.

Hellebores as a tall groundcover (Helleborus x hybridus)

At 12 to 18 inches, hellebores aren't a carpet in the stringent sense, however masses of them in dry shade under trees develop a living mulch that outcompetes winter weeds. Their February to March flowers bring the lean early-season garden, right when numerous Greensboro backyards look worn out. They tolerate clay and drought as soon as established. Cut off in 2015's leaves in January to decrease disease and showcase flowers.

Evergreen mats for year-round cover

An evergreen surface area simplifies upkeep and keeps winter season landscapes from feeling bare. Greensboro winters are gray enough without acres of mud.

Asian jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum)

This one divides designers. It's tough, evergreen, and manages sun to bright shade. It likewise runs tough if you let it, which in some circumstances is exactly what you want. On a steep slope beside a highway-noise wall, it's gold. In a home border, it's a bully. Keep it in consult a yearly edge cut, ideally with a sharp spade, and a late winter season shearing before the spring flush. Do not plant it where you ever plan to establish little perennials later.

Evergreen creeping raspberry (Rubus calycinoides)

People like the textured, quilted leaves, bronze in winter, and the method it gets a bank without climbing up into shrubs. I have actually used it on issue slopes at apartment building where mowing is dangerous. It spreads steadily, not explosively, and tolerates heat much better than many evergreen covers. The surface area is not friendly to bare ankles, so avoid path edges.

Vinca minor, with cautions

Periwinkle is evergreen, adapts to shade, and rolls along reliably. In Greensboro, it can jump into woody edges if enabled to run downhill. I still utilize it in city in-bounds circumstances where hardscape contains it entirely. If you inherit a yard with vinca, consider islanding it with stone borders rather than waging war, then add height and seasonal interest with shrubs and bulbs above it.

Flowering carpets that bring seasonal color

A groundcover does not need to be green. Well-chosen bloomers can soften difficult edges and draw the eye.

Hardy geraniums (Geranium macrorrhizum)

This types in particular is difficult, aromatic, and deer-resistant. It handles part sun to bright shade and forms a weed-suppressing mat of foliage that reddens in fall. Spring to early summer flowers in pinks and magentas include lift. After a hot summer, it takes advantage of a shear to refresh development. I have actually used it on north-facing structure beds where turf struggles and watering is inconsistent.

Mazus (Mazus reptans)

For little, moist specific niches near downspouts or pond edges, mazus gives a low, dense mat with tiny purple or white flowers late spring into summertime. It values afternoon shade and constant moisture. In Greensboro's summer heat, it sulks if soil dries to concrete. Match it with drip watering or plant where stormwater funnels, and it becomes a terrific living joint between stones.

Coreopsis 'Zagreb' as a looser ground layer

It isn't a conventional groundcover, however massed coreopsis can serve as a semi-evergreen layer that covers soil in sun, flowers prolifically, and shrugs off heat. In newer neighborhoods with great deals of complete sun and reflective heat, a swath of 'Zagreb' holds much better than numerous yards and welcomes pollinators. Cut back in late winter to 3 or 4 inches to promote fresh growth.

Succulent and xeric options for hot, poor soils

Where soil is thin, rocky, or up against pavement, succulents win. Greensboro's humidity is the limiter; select forms that endure moisture swings.

Stonecrops (Sedum spp.)

Low sedums like Sedum album, S. rupestre 'Angelina,' and S. spurium will carpet edges and rock walls, radiance in winter season, and handle shown heat. They need sharp drain. In flat clay, mound 3 to 6 inches of gritty mix and plant into that. I have actually trialed S. album at a Guilford College parking lot edge with two irrigations the first summertime, none thereafter, and it still looks crisp five years in.

Ice plant, selectively (Delosperma cooperi and sturdy cultivars)

Only the hardier types make sense here, and even then they choose raised, gravelly beds. When pleased, you get electrical magenta or orange flowers in waves from May through summer season. Prevent overhead watering. They fail in heavy, wet clay, so devote to developing a fast-draining bed or avoid them.

Fragrant and cooking groundcovers for paths and patios

If you like plants that talk back when you brush them, consider herbs that can take a little foot traffic.

Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum and T. praecox cultivars)

Between pavers completely sun, thyme releases scent with every action and remains tidy at 1 to 2 inches. The technique is spacing joints large enough, generally 4 to 6 inches, and utilizing a free-draining joint mix. In our environment, afternoon shade helps in July and August. It frowns at soggy winters in anxieties; crown plants up somewhat and prevent leaf piles smothering them.

Corsican mint (Mentha requienii), sparingly

The peppermint scent is unequaled, but it wants wetness and light shade. It operates in small, irrigated yards, not exposed street edges. Without routine wetness, it blinks out in August. I utilize it as a detail near seating areas where the aroma is appreciated, never ever as a large-area cover.

Soil prep and planting that in fact operates in Piedmont clay

Most groundcover problems begin at set up. The fastest plant on earth can not outrun waterlogged clay or building and construction rubble. When I bid a groundcover task in Greensboro, the quote always includes some soil prep. Avoiding it is false economy.

Aim to loosen the leading 6 to 8 inches, then include 1 to 2 inches of compost and mix, not bury. If you're working on a slope, step-cut shelves to capture soil and water, then re-grade. Where drainage persists, develop shallow swales or dry creek features to move water off the bed. For succulents and phlox, include mineral grit like broadened slate or coarse sand into the top layer so roots see air as well as moisture.

Spacing matters. A 4-inch pot of something like mazus can spread to cover 12 inches in a season with good conditions. Sluggish spreaders like partridgeberry might take 2 years to knit. If you want protection in one season, tighten spacing to 8 inches on center for quick spreaders, 6 inches for slow ones, and budget plan accordingly. The labor to weed bare soil for a year typically costs more than the extra flats of plants.

Watering is front-loaded. The first two to three weeks after planting are critical. In a typical Greensboro June, new plantings require water every two to three days if there is no rain, then gradually stretch periods. Morning irrigation decreases illness pressure. When established, much of these covers can reside on rains, though shaded urban sites with tree canopies might require extra water throughout prolonged drought.

Mulch lightly. Fine-textured mulches like triple-shred hardwood can mat and suffocate small groundcover begins. I use a thin layer, about half an inch, or skip mulch entirely where coverage will happen rapidly, depending on pre-emergent herbicide in industrial settings and hand weeding in property beds. If you prefer organic-only, corn gluten applied at the right time assists a little with annual weeds however is not a magic trick.

Weeds, bugs, and where things go wrong

Most failures trace to one of three problems: incorrect plant for the light, poor drainage, or lack of early weeding. In the first 6 months, drop by weekly and pull burglars while they are small. A single nutsedge plant delegated grow can control a bed by August. In shady, humid specific niches, watch for crown rot on ajuga and hellebores. Removing crowded, decaying leaves rapidly can stop spread.

Voles sometimes tunnel through rich groundcovers in winter season. If you have actually had vole issues, avoid tender-rooted selections near their known courses and consider burying a strip of hardware cloth as a barrier along bed edges. Deer in Greensboro communities tend to leave sedges, hellebores, and geranium macrorrhizum alone, however they munch mazus and phlox if other food is scarce.

Invasive potential is a genuine issue. English ivy should be off the list near forests, and Liriope spicata is risky unless completely consisted of. If you currently have these, manage with rigorous edging and winter thinning, then phase in more responsible alternatives over time.

Design notes from regional projects

Groundcovers do more than fill area. They set the tone for courses, tie different things together, and make a lawn feel finished year round. In Fisher Park, I've utilized Carex pensylvanica under century-old oaks to merge disparate shade beds without fighting roots or setting up irrigation. The customer desired a lawn look without the mowing and bare spots. We planted plugs at 10 inches on center and mowed the sedge twice a year on a high setting. Three years later on, it appears like a soft woodland carpet that endures foot traffic to the hammock.

On a high Lake Jeanette slope, a mix of evergreen sneaking raspberry for structure and pockets of creeping phlox for spring color fixed disintegration and provided seasonal interest. The key was to terrace with low stone lines to catch water and to plant densely enough that weeds never ever found sunlight.

In a new-build near Friendly Center, the front walk bakes in afternoon sun. We set 24 inch square pavers on a gravel base with 4 inch joints and planted a grid of thyme cultivars to develop a patchwork of greens that smells good in July heat. It needs quarterly edging with a knife to keep crisp joints, which is lighter work than trimming a tiny wedge of lawn.

Matching plants to common Greensboro scenarios

Here are quick matches that I have actually seen prosper consistently:

Dry shade under oaks and maples: Pennsylvania sedge, hellebores, green-and-gold on edges where light reaches. Hot, sunny slopes with disintegration: creeping phlox higher up, evergreen creeping raspberry or Asian jasmine where traffic is low, pussytoes on the leanest patches. Foundation beds with morning sun and afternoon shade: Geranium macrorrhizum, clumping liriope, and woodland phlox in the back half. Between stepping stones: dwarf mondograss in shade, creeping thyme in sun, mazus in a lightly irrigated nook. Courtyard beds you see in winter: evergreen sneaking raspberry for texture, hellebores for winter flowers, and little patches of partridgeberry for detail.

Establishment timeline and realistic maintenance

Expect a groundcover bed to reach 80 percent protection in the first season if watered and weeded regularly, and full protection by the end of the 2nd season. Some, like sedges and partridgeberry, take longer but repay you with lower long-term maintenance.

Annual tasks are simple but specific. In late winter season, shear or hand-prune anything that looks worn out, especially ajuga, phlox mats, and liriope. Early spring is the moment to topdress with compost on nutrient-hungry plants like geranium and woodland phlox. Through summer season, touch up edges where aggressive spreaders satisfy paths. In fall, let tree leaves serve as mulch where plants endure it, however clear heavy mats off thyme and sedums to prevent smothering.

If irrigation is part of your landscaping in Greensboro NC, zone groundcover beds individually from grass. Numerous groundcovers, as soon as established, require far less water than lawn, and overwatering welcomes disease. Drip lines under mulch are simple to retrofit and keep foliage dry.

Budgeting and sourcing in the Triad

Cost differs extensively. Flats of 2 inch plugs are least expensive per square foot however need persistence and weeding. 4 inch pots cost more in advance and save labor. For a normal 400 square foot bed, expect to spend a few hundred dollars on plugs or over a thousand on larger plants, plus soil preparation and labor. High-visibility industrial websites often justify the greater plant density to get instant coverage.

Local nurseries in the Triad frequently stock the plants listed here, and numerous growers provide contract-grown trays if you plan ahead by 6 to 10 weeks. If a specific cultivar is unavailable, request functional equivalents instead of settling for aggressive lookalikes. For example, if you can't find dwarf mondograss, avoid replacing Liriope spicata and rather utilize a clumping Ophiopogon or a small Carex.

When to plant in Greensboro

Spring and early fall are prime. In spring, soils are warming and rains are dependable, which accelerates rooting. In fall, the soil still holds summer heat while air temperatures are kinder, and roots establish well before winter. I prevent planting heat-sensitive groundcovers in July and August unless irrigation is rock-solid and site conditions are forgiving.

After big rain events, let heavy clay dry a bit before working it. Planting into plasticine soil compacts the structure and sets you up for drainage issues that no amount of wishful thinking can fix.

Bringing all of it together

Great groundcovers resolve issues silently. Choose plants that fit your light and soil, prepare the ground thoughtfully, and provide disciplined care the first season. In Greensboro's environment, that suffices to develop living carpets that decrease weeds, support slopes, and bring color throughout the calendar. For customers who want low, clean lines with very little fuss, clumping liriope or mondograss provide. For pollinator-friendly tapestries in part shade, green-and-gold and forest phlox add charm without drama. On hot banks where absolutely nothing holds, creeping phlox and evergreen sneaking raspberry do the unglamorous work.

Treat groundcovers as the connective tissue of your landscape. When they are well selected and kept, your shrubs and trees look much better, your beds need less mulch, and you spend more time enjoying the garden and less time battling with erosion and weeds. That is the quiet power of clever landscaping in Greensboro NC.

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Ramirez Landscaping & Lighting is a Greensboro, North Carolina landscaping company providing design, installation, and ongoing property care for homes and businesses across the Triad.

Ramirez Landscaping & Lighting offers hardscapes like patios, walkways, retaining walls, and outdoor kitchens to create usable outdoor living space in Greensboro NC and nearby communities.

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Ramirez Landscaping & Lighting serves Greensboro, Oak Ridge, High Point, Brown Summit, Winston Salem, Stokesdale, Summerfield, Jamestown, and Burlington for landscaping projects of many sizes.

Ramirez Landscaping & Lighting can be reached at (336) 900-2727 for estimates and scheduling, and additional details are available via Google Maps.

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Ramirez Landscaping & Lighting is based at 2700 Wildwood Dr, Greensboro, NC 27407-3648 and can be contacted at [email protected] for quotes and questions.